COMPLETE GUIDE TO MALE DRESS SHOES
Talking about shoes is a matter of style and history too. In the region where Armenia is today, more or less 5,000 years ago, at the same time they invented writing and the wheel, the first shoe was created by man.
Since then our shoes have evolved a lot, thank you. But skipping a few millennia forward, until 2020, do you know what are the main models that a modern man should have in his collection and how to use them?
To answer that and help you take the right steps towards more stylish days, we have made an absolutely complete guide to men's dress shoes. What are the different types, how did they arise and the most suitable occasions for each one. Look that:
OXFORD
Here's a classic that never goes out of style. What defines Oxford, mainly, are the shoelace holes that are in the shoe's own body.
It is not known exactly where it had been invented. The most accepted hypotheses are Ireland or Scotland. But it is a fact that the model was popularized in England by students at the University of Oxford (hence its name) in the early 19th century.
There are several variations of Oxford - material, colour, cut. But there is a wild model that every man needs in the closet: the basic black leather, perfect for wearing with a suit.
DERBY
At first glance, Derby is very similar to Oxford. And they really are. What is the subtle difference between the two? At the Derby, the shoelace holes are on a sewn flap.
You could say that Derby literally changed the history of the world. It came about when a general of Prussia, during the Napoleonic Wars, thought his soldiers were losing agility in preparing for battles because of their closed boots.
The solution he found? Create an open-loop model, which even gave more comfort to those with long feet. His troops would later defeat, in union with the British, Napoleon at Waterloo.
The boot was named after him: Blucher. And the short-barreled version of it, which in the following decades became popular with sportsmen and hunters, became the Derby.
For its history, Derby is considered a little more casual than Oxford, especially when it is suede. But it also works with tailoring.
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BROGUE
Brogue is not really a shoe model, but the decorative holes they receive. But the name became popular as a type of shoe. You can have an Oxford Brogue, a Derby Brogue, a Brogue boot and so on.
No one knows the exact time when the Brogue came into being, but it is believed that it was in Ireland, when workers started to pierce their shoes so that water would drain faster in external services.
The first references of Brogue as a style item, however, refer to the beginning of the 20th century. Traditionally Brogue is a casual shoe, but over time it ended up adopting a very versatile feature. It looks just as beautiful with jeans or a suit.
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MONK STRAP
What is the chance that a shoe that has “monk” in its name is cool? Few. But the Monk Strap is an exception to the rule. Despite being less known than other models present in the matter, it is becoming more popular every day.
In place of the laces, the Monk Strap has a strap and buckle. The version with two buckles, the Double Monk Strap, is the most used.
Its history goes back several centuries ago when European monks decided to exchange their sandals for these shoes, seeking more protection for their feet.
In the last decades, Monk Strap has gained fashion status and, like Brogue, it is quite versatile, suitable for formal and casual events.
LOAFER & MOCASSIN
Many people are confused about Loafer (left) and Moccasin (right), thinking that they are different names for the same type of shoe. This is not true, despite the similarity between them.
The Moccasin is a shoe used for centuries by the North American Indians. It is recognized by the side seam and for being closed, that is, it does not need a shoelace or buckle to tie. It may even have laces, but it is purely decorative.
The Loafer, which has the same characteristics described above, has two versions for its origin. It would have been created by the English nobility to be used at home or by a Norwegian who visited the USA and developed a modernized version of the Moccasin, mixing it with traditional footwear from Scandinavian fishermen.
What is their difference? Like Oxford and Derby, the Loafer has a low heel and a separate sole. Moccasin doesn't have any of that, it's a unique body. But it can bring some carnations (the so-called Moccasin Driver) underneath or a thin layer of plastic.
In general, both come with a leather band at the top of the foot, sometimes adorned with metal detail. Both have a more casual footprint, especially suede models. But you can wear it with a blazer and it will be fine.
TOPSIDER OR DOCKSIDE
When the heat gets hot, it's time to take the Boat Shoes out of the closet, more popularly known as Top-Sider or Dockside, which in essence are the same, were only launched by different brands.
The Top-Sider was created by a sailor who, tired of slipping on the deck of the boat, was inspired by the feet of his cocker spaniel (who could run on ice with great balance) to cut the sole of his shoe in a similar pattern, to gain traction.
It worked and, in 1935, he launched the Sperry brand, which became popular in the following decades among sailors and is still active today.
The Dockside was launched in 1970 by Sebago, following the same formula, but promising a superior quality about the Sperry Boat Shoes. And they kept their promise, so much so that in the following decade it became a world trend.
Another difference? While Top-Sider was born made of canvas, Dockside went to the world in leather.
What originally defines Boat Shoes is their streaked sole. He resembles a Moccasin hybrid (for his sewing) with Derby (for the laces). But the Boat Shoes ended up gaining another striking detail over time: the 360-degree mooring system.
It is perfect for hot days and daytime events, even matching well with shorts.
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